General Floor Buying Guide

Today’s choices in flooring are more varied than ever, running the gamut of styles, finishes, and installation options. Product innovation is clearly blurring the lines between many flooring categories, and the raw materials used to create flooring types include gin bottles, corn sugar, and the staves from old wine barrels. The winner in this underfoot mash-up is the consumer, who benefits from an astonishing array of choices that fit any lifestyle and budget.

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Sampling is Smart
Before you buy, bring home samples of your top flooring choices. Compare them side-by-side where they’re going to be installed. Getting an opinion from a salesperson, who is trained in interior design, is always ideal.

Measuring Avoids Mistakes
To determine how much flooring you’ll need, a member of our sales staff will measure the room’s square footage (at no charge!). We recommend that you buy 7 to 10 percent more than what is measured. This allows for possible mistakes and bad pieces. Plus, a little extra flooring on hand is great for repairs down the road.

Location
Carefully consider the location of your new floor. Is it below-, on- or above-grade? Basements are susceptible to ground moisture, so your flooring choice may be different from a bedroom on the second or third floor. Likewise, kitchens and bathrooms are prone to water damage and humid conditions, which should be a heavy factor in your decision-making process.
Also, be sure to observe the space throughout the day. Does it get a lot of direct sunlight? UV light can fade or darken certain flooring, so look to purchase resistant products for these spaces.

Function
Common high-traffic areas are entryways to rooms and to the house itself. If you have pets or kids, the family room can also be a busy place. These spaces require flooring that can stand up to the wear.

Ways to Save
Cooperatives work together to gain buying power and scale. This allows independent, family businesses, like Dalton Carpet One, to provide the most competitive pricing and value. Together, our cooperative of over 1,000 member store owners is the largest buyer of floor covering in North America. This means that we can negotiate great prices and pass those savings on to our customers- you.

Questions to Ask Yourself

A number of flooring choices are available for every room, so it pays to ask yourself the right questions:

  • How long will you live in this space?
  • What is the look you want to achieve in the room:  rustic, traditional, contemporary, elegant, cozy, chic?
  • Will this floor be installed on, above (second floor) or below grade (basement)?
  • Do you have or plan to have children or pets?
  • Are seniors or those with physical disabilities living in or regularly visiting your home?  What sort of modifications will you need?
  • Does anyone in your home have allergies?
  • Is this a floor you’re willing to repair or replace over time?
  • What type of routine cleaning are you willing to do?
  • What is the room’s function:  the first stop from outside, catchall, family night, entertaining?
  • Have you factored trim, thresholds, padding, waste, etc. into your budget?
  • Have you factored installation costs into your budget?
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DCO vs. The Big Box Store

Why should you choose DCO over big box stores?
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Dalton Carpet One has very knowledgeable staff that is more than willing to help you. We also pride ourselves in excellent customer service, ensuring your satisfaction (we even have a Beautiful Guarantee!). Our pricing is also very straightforward, unlike many big box stores.

There are quite a few drawbacks to big box stores (Lowes, Home Depot, Empire Today, Lumber Liquidators, etc). One disadvantage is that many are notorious for getting you in the door with a deal that sounds irresistible, but by the time you get the final bill, a bunch of “fine print” charges make the final cost more than you would have paid somewhere else. They’re also known for being unhelpful. Their sales staff may not be properly trained in carpet, or worse, might be incentivized to sell a certain type of carpet, rather than what’s best for you. Most of these stores contract out installation. This wouldn’t matter except when it comes to a problem with your carpet, many people have found that these large retailers put the blame on someone else (eg. the installer or manufacturer) and won’t help with your problem.

Here are some questions to consider when determining whether to use a big box store or a local store, like Dalton Carpet One:

Who is measuring your home?
The person who measures your house typically does not work for the big box store. They work for another company that is contracted by the store. They tend to know nothing about the person they are sending into your home. At Dalton Carpet One, your sales person will come to your home and measure the space. This person will be your main point of contact throughout the sale and installation.

Who is installing your flooring?
Usually, the big box stores do not know very much about the people they are sending into your home to install your floors. The actual installers that show up at your house may have very little experience or a questionable background. Most of the installers here at Dalton Carpet One have been employed by us for many years and carry their own insurance and bonds. We are also 5 Diamond Installation Excellence Certified.

Did you read the small print?
A lot of these big box stores have hidden fees in their small print that can really empty your wallet. For example, the deal may read, “10% off!” but in small print it reads “installation only”, which can only actually be a few cents per square foot, saving you virtually nothing.

Do they charge you for an estimate?
Big box stores will charge anything, usually about $50.00, to measure your home. Then the person who measures (third party contractor) will not tell you how much your total is. The estimator will not tell you how many square yards / square feet they came up with until you go back to the store to buy. They often inform you of these extra charges after they have collected the estimate fee. At Dalton Carpet One, our estimates are always free!

Do you have to pay in full prior to installation?
What if they do a bad job, fall short on material, or never show up? Most stores, including us, ask for a deposit on the order and ask for the balance to be paid on completion of the job, once it is done to your satisfaction. We also offer payment options!

How long will the installation take?
Big box stores have a standard wait time from the date you place your order to the installation date that can take up to 4 – 6 weeks! At Dalton Carpet One, it depends on the product, but we can usually get it done in less than half that time. In-stock carpet can be done within a couple of days.

Is the installation guaranteed?
The registrar of contractors holds companies responsible for two years, but many big box stores say that it is guaranteed for only one year. At Dalton Carpet One, we offer an installation guarantee on your carpet for the lifetime of the product.

How are you treated?
Many times when you call a big box store, you will be directed to an automated system, then asked to “Press 1,” etc. When you finally got a human on the phone, you ask for the flooring department. After a few minutes on hold, you finally got an associate on the phone. You ask a question, then you get placed on hold…again. Minutes later, a different associate comes on the line. You ask this person the same question. Your total time invested is more than 10 minutes to answer a very simple question. The same phone call to Dalton Carpet One would have taken under one minute from start to finish.

Is the staff informed and knowledgeable?
The person in the flooring department at the big box store may have just transferred from the plumbing department or garden department. Each member of our staff at Dalton Carpet One has the experience, proper training, and knowledge needed to answer all of your questions and help you select the flooring you are looking for. They even have the ability to help design and can give suggestions on décor.

Are you buying more material than you need?
YES, you are! The big box stores add around 10% more square feet / square yards than you actually need. They will say that it is for cut allowance or overage. Every time we measure a home that has been previously measured by a big box store, we have come up with less material needed. EVERY TIME! That means you are being charged too much by the big box stores.

Read more about the Dalton Carpet One Difference>

Hardwood vs. Laminate

Things to consider when deciding which to purchase for your home.

Before we begin, let’s define the difference between the two:

Laminate is a multi-layer synthetic flooring product. The core layer of laminate flooring is manufactured primarily from melamine resin and fiberboard material. The top layer has an imprinted textured image made to look like real wood.

Engineered hardwood flooring is a type of wood floor that consists of several layers of wood or plywood. The bottom and middle layers are manufactured from cross-laid solid wood or plywood planks. The top layer consists of a solid sawn wood lamella, often stained and prefinished in a factory setting.

Solid hardwood flooring planks are produced from single pieces of wood that can be purchased unfinished or prefinished.
Basically, while solid or engineered hardwood flooring is manufactured from real wood and preserves the unique textured grain and appearance of natural wood, laminate flooring is only an imitation.

The advancements in laminate and hardwood flooring make the decision between the two more challenging than ever. Technological and structural improvements in each option have led to increased demand for both types.

Years ago, the decision was usually based upon budget- but not anymore! In order to make the best flooring decision for your home or business, the laminate vs. hardwood flooring debate must incorporate an objective and informed analysis of six fairly broad elements.

  1. Lifestyle or Usage – Homeowners and business owners who impartially assess their lifestyle or usage are more likely to make the right decision. For example, households with young children and a number of pets or a business that experiences high traffic, might find the durability of laminate flooring more productive. However, advancements in hardwood manufactured finishes and maintenance allow hardwood flooring to work in busy offices and in hectic households that take preventive measures, such as clipping pet’s nails and using rugs.
  2. Maintenance Commitment – Regular maintenance is important and no floor can survive without responsible maintenance. However, if your maintenance budget is tight, and if excessive accumulation of dust, dirt, and wear and tear is likely, laminate is easier to maintain. More thorough hardwood floor maintenance cannot be put aside, but laminate can survive quite well with only regular sweeping and vacuuming.
  3. Climate and Exposure – Homeowners and business owners must again be objective about the exposure of the floor. Where the floor will be installed is a big consideration. For example, if a bathroom tends to accumulate moisture on the surface, laminate is the more prudent choice. Hardwood floors do not thrive in damp climates with significant temperature swings. Solid hardwood floors should never be installed below grade, which is a popular setting for laminate flooring.
  4. Aesthetic Appeal – Laminate has an amazing likeness to hardwood floors. But, there really is nothing as authentic and durable as an authentic solid hardwood floor. Hardwood flooring can also increase the value and demand for your property, be it residential or commercial. If you feel the authenticity of your flooring is important to attract clients or buyers or for the elegant luxury your home requires, hardwood is the right decision.
  5. Environmental Considerations – Hardwood gets the nod for renewability and sustainability as it is drawn from carefully managed forests. But, laminate flooring basically eliminates the destruction of any trees. Yet, laminate floors are made from non-renewable sources. In order to assess environmental concerns, remember that hardwood has a much longer life cycle than laminate. Hardwood floors can last hundreds of years, which is a plus.
  6. Budget – The cost of laminate flooring is lower than the cost of hardwood flooring. Laminate has a shorter life expectancy but is tough, practical, and durable. However, the return on investment is usually better with hardwood flooring. How tight is your budget? Can you afford to invest in hardwood and maintain it to achieve your maximum return? For a majority of buyers, this is the biggest concern, but certainly not an exclusive consideration.

Many hardwood floor owners say that because of its authenticity, the “real feel” and exclusiveness of hardwood flooring, it is more desirable. However, as we can see, there are situations that indicate laminate is the wiser choice. Be sure to consider all the factors and prioritize your needs before deciding.

The Dalton Carpet One Difference

Even More Reason to Purchase from Us

Locally Owned and Operated
When you shop at Dalton Carpet One, you are among neighbors. We live side-by-side with you, shop in other local stores with you, and send our children to the same schools. So we are dedicated to our customers and we care about our community.

Competitive Prices
We are a member of a cooperative, a larger company owned by us and other independent, family businesses like us. Being a member of the Carpet One Floor & Home® cooperative gives us the scale and buying power to offer you, our customer, the most competitive pricing, service, and innovative flooring in the industry, all while maintaining our local and independent identity.

Cooperatives work together to gain buying power and scale. This allows independent, family businesses like us to provide the most competitive pricing and value. Together, our cooperative of over 1,000 member store owners is the largest buyer of floor covering in North America. This means that we can negotiate great prices and pass those savings on to you, our customers. We also benefit from shared best practices and business tools that help us run our business better and provide extraordinary service.

Exclusive Brands
We have more than 20 brands exclusively offered through Carpet One, as well as others. These brands include Bigelow, Lees, Tigressa, Innova, Resista Cutting Edge, Invincible Hardwood and LVT, Rustic River Hardwood, Vero Stone, Laminate for Life, and more!

Leading Flooring Experts
When it’s time to choose a new floor for your home, there are many things to consider. Whether you’re looking for a carpet perfect for active families or a hardwood that stands up to moisture, knowing and understanding the different products and attributes available can help you narrow down the selection. Our amazing sales staff can provide the information you need to understand the different types of flooring materials and the installation process. Dalton Carpet One has more than 1,000 years of combined flooring experience!

Community Focused
As an independent family business supported by our membership in a cooperative, we are dedicated to giving back to our communities and helping others. We live, work, and play in this community, just like you. We are fully invested in keeping our community vibrant and strong. We are your neighbors, friends, and family. In addition to giving back directly to our community, we provide local jobs and a positive work environment.

Every year, we hold two 3-Day Sale events- one in the spring and one in the fall. We offer to install carpet in your home for free if you donate a designated amount to a charity chosen by us. On Oct. 20 – 22, come out to support The Alzheimer’s Association Walk to End Alzheimer’s with our $38 whole-home carpet installation.

 

 

Best Flooring For Your Kitchen

Hardwood, Rubber, Tile, LVT, or Laminate?
Kitchen options to fit all needs.

Floors take a beating, even in fine environments, but nowhere more so than in the kitchen. Command central for preparing dinner, math homework, family gatherings, and more, it’s important to find a kitchen floor that can endure continuous traffic and make the style statement you want.

In your search for kitchen floors, durability, affordability, maintenance, and softness should be considered. Because of the possibility of water, spills, and messes, water-resistance and friction should also be taken into consideration. You wouldn’t want to slip in a puddle of water while holding the main entrée!

Just about any interior design style can be complemented with tile or wood. Because of their versatility, durability, color and texture variation, and timeless beauty, they make up 72% of kitchen installations (Builder Practices Survey).

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Tile

Tile makes up about 41% of kitchen installations. In the event that a tile does crack or chip, it can easily be popped out and replaced. Tile can cost anywhere from 99 cents to $30 per square foot, depending on the quality of the tile. The great thing is that tile has a wide variety of colors, styles, shapes, sizes, and textures. Even cheaper tile can be glazed to mimic certain looks, like marble or wood planks. Tile does just fine when it gets wet, so cleaning it is a breeze.

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Hardwood

Making up about 31% of kitchen installations, hardwood flooring comes up second on kitchen flooring. Unfortunately, hardwood is not quite as durable as tile, as it can scratch and dent. Another downside is that it doesn’t do well when it gets wet. In the event a child adds dish soap to the dishwasher by mistake (guilty!) you would have to completely replace your floors. Hardwood has such a naturally gorgeous appearance, it can be hard to pass up!

Other 28%:

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Stone

A more expensive option, but only because it is very durable. Stone (quartz, slate, granite) does not absorb very much water and is also very easy to clean. A great option for a luxurious kitchen.

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Laminate

As with most things, laminate made with higher quality materials will be more durable. The better-made it is, the more expensive it will be. Most options are fairly cheap, though. Laminate typically comes in a pattern that mimics the appearance of wood. It is fairly easy to clean, just use a damp mop.
Contrary to popular belief, laminate is not waterproof! If there is a leak from a burst pipe, you will most likely have to replace your floors. Fortunately, it can be so cheap this may not that big of a deal. It was time to replace that pattern anyway!

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LVT/Sheet Vinyl

Luxury vinyl tiles or sheets are a very versatile option, as it comes in a wide selection of colors, patterns, and sizes. Like laminate, vinyl is more durable as the quality goes up. Vinyl tiles or sheets are a very cheap option for flooring, especially for how durable and versatile it can be. It is very easy to clean and is more water-resistant that laminate.

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Rubber

Used mostly in commercial space, rubber is making appearances in residential homes. Rubber flooring can be expensive but is so durable it is worth it. It is resistant to water and slips, making it a great option for your kitchen. Rubber floors come in a wide assortment of colors, textures, and can be cut into pretty much any shape you may desire. Even that fleur-de-lis I am so fond of! One of the few downfalls is that it stains easily with oils, but it is easy to clean otherwise.

Flooring Terminology

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Flooring words you should know

There are hundreds of different products to choose from which can make picking a new floor a daunting task. You want to make sure you are getting the best quality product for your budget. We wanted to help by providing a glossary of fairly common flooring terms so you can understand better as you shop. Don’t be afraid to ask questions! The more you know, the easier it will be to make the choice that’s best for your home.

Above Grade: Any surface that is above the level of the surrounding ground.

Acrylic Impregnated: Acrylic monomers are injected into the cell structure of the wood to increase hardness, then finished with a wear layer over the wood.

Acrylic Urethane: Slightly different chemical composition than Polyurethane, with similar benefits.

Aluminum Oxide: Added to the wear layer of a urethane finish for increased abrasion resistance. Popular on better grade wood floors.

Below Grade: Any surface that is below the level of the surrounding ground.

Better: A quality of oak that has small knots and light dark graining.

Beveled Edge: Hardwood boards with a distinctive groove in them, as seen in informal and country decor. With today’s urethane finishes, these edges can be completely sealed, making these floors easy to clean.

Buckle: When humidity is high, wood expands and gaps disappear. In situations of too much moisture, wood may cup, or “buckle.”

Clear: A quality of oak that has no visual blemishes or knots. Expensive.

Cross-ply Construction: A technique where wood plies are stacked on top of each other in opposing directions. The result is a wood floor that is dimensionally stable and less affected by moisture. Allows the plies to counteract each other, thus prohibiting the plank from shrinking or expanding under humid conditions. These floors can be installed over concrete and/or below grade.

Cupping: Warping with a concave condition; the center is lower than the sides.

Eased Edge: Some manufacturers add this slightly beveled edge to both the length and end joints of their hardwood planks. This helps hide minor irregularities, including uneven plank heights. Also called “micro-beveled edge.”

Engineered: One of the three common types of hardwood floor (the others are Solid and Longstrip Plank). Generally made with 2,3, or 5 thin sheets or plies of wood, laminated together to form a single plank. Most can be nailed, stapled or glued down, or floated over a variety of subfloors, including some existing flooring.

Finish in Place: The term given to unfinished hardwood floors that are installed onsite, sanded and finished with an application of 2 to 3 coats of urethane that is brushed or mopped on. May be screened and recoated to rejuvenate the finish and revitalize the floor’s natural beauty.

Floating Floor Installation: With this method of installation, hardwood floors are not mechanically fastened to any part of the subfloor. Instead, a thin pad is placed between the wood and the subfloor and wood glue is applied in the tongue and groove of each plank. This technique protects against moisture, reduces noise, feels softer and provides for some additional “R” value. Some Engineered floors and all Longstrip floors can be floated.

Glue Down: The process in which hardwood floor is adhered to a subfloor using a recommended mastic or adhesive, spread on with the proper sized trowel. Engineered wood floors and parquets are typically glued down, while solid strip and plank floors are nailed or stapled.

Graining: Each species of wood has its own unique texture, color and graining, determined by the way it was cut.

Janka Hardness Test: The standard test for determining a wood’s hardness rating in which the force required to embed a .444 inch steel ball to half its diameter in a piece of wood is measured. The higher the number, the harder the wood. Only used as a general guideline.

Knot: The round, harder, typically darker cross-section of a piece of wood where a branch once joined the tree trunk

Laminate: A manufactured product sandwiching a backing material, visual element and a wear layer that simulates the look of hardwood, stone, or other natural or unnatural surfaces.

Longstrip Plank: One of the three common types of hardwood floor (the others are Solid and Engineered). Similar to Engineered floors in that multiple layers or plies are glued together on top of a center core that is typically a softer wood material that is also used to make the tongue and groove. The result is a board that appears to be 3 rows wide and several planks long. Comes in a wide variety of domestic and exotic hardwood species. Easy to replace if damaged.

Moisture Cured Urethane: A chemical similar to solvent-based urethanes, but requires humidity (moisture) to cure.  Extremely difficult to apply, has a strong odor and is best left to the professional.

Moldings: Used to cover expansion joints and to enhance the performance and appearance of a hardwood floor. Typically need to be removed for installation.

Nail Down: Nailing cleats are used with a wood flooring nailer and a mallet to attach hardwood flooring to a subfloor. This method of installation is typically used with the 3/4″ solid products, though adapters exist for thinner floors.

Number 1 Common: A quality of oak that has some knots and some dark graining.

Number 2 Common: A quality of oak that has even more knots and dark graining.

On-Grade: At ground level

Polyurethane: A clear, durable finish applied as a wear layer over hardwood floor.

Pre-Finished Wood: Hardwood flooring that comes sanded, stained and finished at the manufacturing plant, ready for installation in your home. These products typically provide a harder, better-protected surface because several coats of urethane are applied and UV dried. Offers a wider variety of wood species and saves hours of labor and cleanup. May be screened and recoated to rejuvenate the finish and revitalize the floor’s natural beauty.

Rotary Cut: A hardwood cutting process that displays a larger and bolder graining pattern.

Select: A quality of oak that has some small knots but very little dark graining.

Sliced Cut: A hardwood cutting process that shows a more uniform pattern.

Solid: One of the three common types of hardwood floor (the others are Engineered and Longstrip Plank). One solid piece of wood that has tongue and groove sides. Comes unfinished or pre-finished. Sensitive to moisture.

Solvent-Based Urethane Oil: Used as part of the chemical composition of a polyurethane finish

Square Edge: When the edges of all hardwood boards meet squarely to create a uniform, smooth surface that blends the floor together from strip to strip or plank to plank.

Stapled Down: A method of hardwood installation in which staples are used to attach the wood to the subfloor. A pneumatic gun is often used.

Strip: The “classic” hardwood floor with narrower board widths. Most common species are red oak, white oak, maple, cherry, white ash, hickory and pecan.

Tongue and Groove: The joining of two hardwood boards, one having a tongue on its edge that fits into the groove in the edge of the other.

Trim: See “Moldings”

Un-Finished Wood Floor: Not pre-finished in a factory. Allows you to customize your floor by sanding, staining/finishing it on site. Also see  “Finish in Place.”

UV Cured: Hardwood finishes cured in a factory with Ultra Violet lights versus heat.

Vinyl Composition Tile: These floor tiles are made from vinyl resins and filler materials to create resilient flooring in assorted colors and patterns.

Water-Based Urethane: A polyurethane finish that includes water in its chemical composition, dries clear and is non-yellowing.

Wilton Carpet: Woven carpet made in a variety of patterns and textures but with a limited number of colors per pattern.

Wood Flooring: Most wood flooring is made of hardwoods, such as oak, maple, pecan, beech and birch. There is solid wood flooring and laminated, which combines wood layered in different directions for strength and to inhibit warping. Most wood flooring today is prefinished at the factory to ease of installation and uniformity of finish.

Woven Carpet: Looms interlace warp (lengthwise) and filling (widthwise) yarns to create a sturdy textile for the floor. Much woven carpet is produced in intricate, colorful patterns. Types of woven carpet include Axminster and Wilton.

For more information on Dalton Carpet One, stop by the showroom at 3690 Atlanta Highway, Suite 108 in Athens, Ga., call 706.353.0547 or visit www.daltoncarpetone.com.

Area Rug Guidelines

Looking for a great way to change the look of your room with little effort? An area rug is a striking design element to update any space. It pulls together the space, adds interest to the floor and can even influence the color palette for the whole room. But, that’s a lot of pressure to put on one item in your room. Choosing the perfect rug can be very difficult.

There are rules, and there are many who disagree with these rules. Instead of adding rules to the list, here are three guidelines to help you choose the rug that is right for your room.

Get the right fit
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Before you go shopping for your rug, measure the room the rug will be in and map out where your furniture will be placed. Most rugs come in standard sizes (8×10, 9×12, 4×6, etc.). One of these sizes should work for your space, but sometimes that is not the case. Fortunately there are options to get that perfect fit. You can always choose a broadloom, or wall-to-wall, carpet, have it cut to the size you need, and have the edges bound is a great alternative to purchasing a standard size rug. This way it is custom-fitted to the space. Just be sure to keep the rug at least 8 – 10 inches away from the wall to show off some of the floor around the rug.

Hall rugs should have at least six inches of floor showing on all sides. In bedrooms, try runners at each side and even the foot of the bed, or place a rug one-third of the way under the bed so the rest of the rug creates a nice mat at the bottom of the bed. Even a beautiful rug can look odd in a room it doesn’t quite fit into, so follow these tips to be sure the rug looks like it is supposed to be there.

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You can find all sorts of rules about area rugs online, so how do you know which ones to follow and which ones to ignore? It truly is a matter of your personal taste, as long as you define the area without confining it.

With all the rules out there, there are a few that almost everyone will agree on. If you’re looking for a rug for your dining room, it is very important that you choose on that is large enough that all four legs of your chairs will remain on the rug even when they are pulled out. The rug should be centered under the table and extend at least 18 inches beyond the edge of the table so that the rug accommodates the dining chairs without worry about chair legs getting caught on the edge of the rug. Choosing a rug that fits the shape of the table is a good way to help soften the space.

As mentioned above, one rule to abide by is to keep some space in between the rug and the wall to show the floor. You don’t want it to look like you have wall-to-wall carpet. A good guide is to choose a rug that is two feet shorter than the smallest wall in the room. You should swing open the front door and then measure the floor from that point, so the first three feet or so remain clear.

In large rooms, rugs should fit the configuration of the room and furniture. A big room set up with two smaller conversation areas would look best with two separate rugs, as long as they’re linked by color or texture. In the end it is your space, so do whatever feels right to you!

Be Consistent
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Some say all the legs of your furniture should be on the rug, others say all of them should be off, and many say half on half off. There are situations where all these rules work and some of it is just a matter of taste. We say that you should just pick one technique and be consistent. Take a gander at inspiration sites like Houzz and Pinterest to get a good idea of the look you want to accomplish. You’ll be able to tell which “rule” you prefer right away.

The best thing about area rugs is that they are easy to change so you can try something new without a long-term commitment. We have a variety of area rugs in our showroom, as well as binding capabilities to make any fragment of carpet into a rug for your space. We can help you personalize your space to meet your vision.

Dalton Carpet One has more than 200 area rugs in a range of traditional and trendy styles. Whether you’re drawn to wool or sisal fibers, indoor or outdoor options, or not quite sure, let our designers help you select the perfect rug to freshen up your room.

For more information on Dalton Carpet One, stop by the showroom at 3690 Atlanta Highway, Suite 108 in Athens, Ga., call 706.353.0547 or visit www.daltoncarpetone.com.